Some crafts are bold. Others are quiet. Chikankari is the latter — delicate, timeless, and rooted in tradition. While the landscape of Indian embroidery is vast, chikankari holds a special place because of its subtlety and handwork.
At Saibo, we celebrate chikankari not just as a style, but as a story. Every chikankari kurta woman wears from us reflects the work of artisans who’ve passed this technique down through generations.
Let’s walk through the many types of Indian embroidery and see what makes chikankari different and deeply loved.
Types of Embroidery in India
1. Zardozi: The Craft of Royalty
Region: Uttar Pradesh, Delhi, Agra
Style: Metallic threads, usually gold and silver
Common Use: Bridal lehengas, sherwanis, couture wear
Zardozi is heavy, rich, and designed to make a statement. The use of gold and silver threads gives it a regal look — perfect for celebration wear. While chikankari is soft and light, zardozi leans toward the ornamental and bold.
2. Kantha: Storytelling with Threads
Region: West Bengal and Odisha
Style: Running stitch embroidery with motifs of nature and everyday life
Common Use: Sarees, dupattas, quilts
Kantha is raw and expressive. Made using old saris and recycled fabrics, it tells personal stories in every piece. In contrast, chikankari kurta cotton speaks through restraint — minimal yet expressive in a very different way.
3. Phulkari: Color in Bloom
Region: Punjab
Style: Colorful floss embroidery stitched from the reverse side
Common Use: Dupattas, shawls, wedding trousseaus
Phulkari is full of vibrant energy. Bold colors, geometric patterns, and thick threadwork define this craft. It’s festive by nature. Chikankari, however, remains understated — relying on soft hues and fine detailing rather than colour to shine.
4. Kashida: Nature-Inspired Beauty
Region: Kashmir
Style: Intricate floral and natural motifs
Common Use: Wool shawls, coats, home textiles
Kashida embroidery mirrors the scenic landscapes of Kashmir. Often done on wool, it’s thicker and more textured. Chikankari, on the other hand, remains breathable and light — perfect for cottons and summer wear.
What Makes Chikankari Unique
Even among so many regional crafts, chikan embroidery work remains distinctly its own. Here's why it continues to stand out in modern wardrobes:
A Hand-Done Tradition
Unlike machine-based embroidery, chikankari is still largely handmade — especially the pieces we craft at Saibo. The patterns are first printed onto fabric using wooden blocks and washable ink. Then, skilled artisans begin the delicate process of stitching.
The Stitches That Tell a Story
Chikankari uses over 40 different types of stitches. Some of the most popular include:
-
Bakhiya (shadow work) – The signature stitch of chikankari
-
Phanda and Murri – Small knots that add depth
-
Jali – Creates a mesh-like effect without cutting the fabric
These stitches are what gives each chikankari kurta woman its gentle texture and elegance.
Fabric Matters
Chikankari works best on soft, breathable fabrics — especially cotton. A chikankari kurta cotton is ideal for Indian summers, casual days, and travel-friendly dressing.
Other commonly used fabrics include:
-
Muslin – Lightweight and airy
-
Modal – Smooth, flowy, and sustainable
-
Georgette – Soft drape, often for festive wear
-
Rayon – Easy on the skin and easy to care for
At Saibo, we pick fabrics that let the embroidery breathe. Nothing flashy. Just enough to bring out the craftsmanship. Read more about Chikankari at Wikipedia.
The People Behind the Embroidery
At Saibo, our chikankari pieces are made by hand, one stitch at a time by women artisans in and around Lucknow. Many of them work from their homes, balancing family life with their craft.
We work closely with these communities not just to ensure quality, but to ensure respect. Because every chikankari kurta woman wears from us carries not just a design but a person’s skill, history, and heart.
Why Chikankari Still Wins Hearts
Among India’s diverse embroidery styles, chikankari stands out for its wearability. It’s the kind of craft that doesn’t scream for attention — and that’s exactly its charm. From office meetings to weekend brunches, a chikankari kurta fits effortlessly into real life. It doesn’t need a special occasion. It becomes the reason you feel put together. And in a world of fashion that’s constantly changing, chikankari stays grounded — in technique, in tradition, and in its ability to feel new each time you wear it.
Final Thoughts
India is home to many embroidery forms, each one rich, meaningful, and worth preserving. But chikankari holds a quiet kind of power. It’s timeless, elegant, and still completely relevant.
Whether it’s a chikankari kurta cotton for everyday comfort or a more intricate piece for celebration, this craft continues to adapt without losing its soul.
At Saibo, we’re proud to carry this legacy forward — responsibly, slowly, and beautifully.
Checkout our best seller Chikankari kurta!